17th September – Eureka to Garberville

An early start today (7.45) as we wanted to maximise our time in the Avenue of the Redwoods. This is something we have all been looking forward to for some days. After breakfast Chris led us along the US101 at a fast speed and the kilometres sped by quickly. We clocked up nearly 40kms before stopping at Ferndale for 45 minutes to drink strong coffee and eat home made cakes. This stop was significant as Ferndale marked the official half-way point from Vancouver to Mexico – it feels like we’ve been riding for ever, but we’re only half way there! Ferndale was a fascinating town with well preserved Victorian buildings and bespoke shops of all kinds. A real gem of a place. 

After another 15kms we picked up Tim at Rio Dell. Great news - Tim returned to the saddle to join us partway through the days ride after 3 days off the road. It was great to see him riding again after a frustrating few days for him. In fact he had missed days of very long uphill climbs, dangerous descents, freezing mist and poor visibility. As soon as Tim joined us the sun shone, the terrain was mostly flat and we had stunning views for the rest of the day  Tim - how do you do it?  

Today was all about the Redwoods. We travelled along the Avenue of the Giants for 50kms and it was absolutely awesome – these great trees live for between 5 and 13 centuries and even after falling they take 100 years to totally decay. Cycling into these Redwood Groves was like entering a hushed cathedral (ok, a quote nicked from a book, but it’s very true). The magnificence of these trees makes it even more appalling that they are being cut down at a rate that threatens extinction by the end of this century! Another highlight of the day was that cycling through the Redwoods we were treated to an airial display by a family of eagles.  Awesome!

At 3.00pm we lunched close to one end of the Avenue of the Giants at Miranda.  During each day we can experience a wide range of weather and temperatures. Earlier in the day we needed to wear 3 layers of clothes when we were near the coast in temperatures of 50F. When moving only a few miles inland the temperature rose to around 85F and this made it uncomfortable to eat outside in the direct sunlight. Cycling uphill can be very warm and cycling down the other side of the hill we are plunged into the cold.  Makes it very difficult to plan what to wear!

After lunch, delayed as our planned restuarant was closed, there was only 20k left to do and we ended our ride day at 5.15pm – a superb days cycling – hope you enjoy the pictures below.

A closely fought contest resulted in Brian being voted TWIT of the day when leaving his helmet behind after a tree team hugging experience.



Handover of navigation maps from
 Tim Chris for leg 3, albeit a day late!



Vancomex team pouch securely fixed
 to Chris’s bike for all the navigational kit



Mail boxes at the US Post Office in Ferndale

– in the US people have to collect their own mail

 from the Post Office




Ferndale, officially the half way point between Vancouver and Mexico – good a place as any to stop for a wee!




Vancomex is a team again as Tim joins us for today’s ride at Rio Dell



Eel river views from the Eel river bridge



Meet Derek and Nathan who we met in the Avenue of the giants



A few shots of our view through the Avenue of the Redwoods



A few shots of our view through the
Avenue of the Redwoods



A few shots of our view through
 the Avenue of the Redwoods



A few shots of our view through
the Avenue of the Redwoods



A few shots of our view through the Avenue of the Redwoods



A few shots of our view through the Avenue of the Redwoods




Brian marking his spot between two

 Redwoods





A drive through tree



A Vacomex Redwood tree hug

We think this is a bald eagle but happy
 to be corrected !





16th September – Crescent City to Eureka

Still no Tim – so frustrating for him, but hopefully the antibiotics will have kicked in for tomorrow.

An 8.00 start after a good breakfast. Our first full day cycling in California and now within touching distance of the great Redwood trees – something we’ve all been looking forward to. Within 7kms of leaving Crescent City we climbed our biggest hill so far – a 1200ft climb over 5kms – not one peak to climb but three. It provided our legs with an early test, but we came through it strongly. This was the first of several long climbs today, but our legs are now much stronger after 10 days on our bikes. At the top of the climb we were treated to some fine sunny views above the fog in the valley below and then had nearly 6kms of fast descent - very scary at timesl!  

At 10.30 we stopped for coffee and a large sticky bun at Klamath and then crossed the Golden Bear bridge where two grizzly bears stand guard at the entrance of the river.

We had loads of scenic cycling today keeping off the US101, the best experience being the ride along Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway through the Redwoods – absolutely awesome!  At 2.30 we lunched at Trinidad (magnificent paninis) and then had more scenic cycling to Arcata where we experienced the annual town celebration – a local band was playing and there seemed to be a really great party spirit in the town. So many wiedos in such a small town.  Chris was very envious of all the men dressed up in women's clothing or tarzan outfits!  Tom made a friend - see photos.

After a final 10km slog along US101 we reached our stop for the night at Eureka having completed over 135kms for the day.  During the day we found it difficult to judge how many layers of clothing to wear when cycling.  Peddling up-hill was hot work, then cycling down in the sea mist was freezing cold. Within  a few minutes of cycling one could experience real extremes of temparature.  

Overall, another very good day all round – great coastal scenery, amazing Redwoods, sunny spells and some great riding on cycling paths. Chris did a great job nagivating today. Tomorrow we will have completed half our journey - still a long way to go!!

There were several contenders for TWIT of the day.  Chris forgot the camera, Brian fell off his bike, Maurice failed to stop for photos of Elks.  The winner was Tom for producing bright blue surgical gloves to mend a puncture.  There was too much flaunting of the cloves and Chris's rear-end came under threat - please refer to photos.   



The start of the Redwoods in Northern
 California – awesome!




Above the sea fog at 1200ft!




Big Foot found us!




Tiny Tim – no wonder

 he can’t keep up




Scott with winnings in Klamath service station




Redwood National Park
 – wonderful cycling




Go boys – some great cycling
 through the Redwoods




Inside one of the Redwoods - now that’s a tree




Preparing for action



Rectal examination or
 puncture repair!



Let’s be clear – it was puncture repair!
Toms first of the tour



The Hammond Trail




Band playing at annual town
 celebration at Arcata




Brief stop at Arcata to take in the

 spirit of the town celebration




Tom and Christopher look like an item

 – briefly!




Daily stats playback from
 Garmin Bridget




Our evening dinner spot




pitchers of Cranberry juice!



Tom on... Twit of the Day

I harbour a grudge.  I  Ianded a TWIT award for needing to relieve
myself urgently. Now there was no offer of due and fair process. We
are about to depart from a sight seeing point and I delayed my
esteemed colleagues by the sudden and unforseen need to pee. When I
sought to inform them that this urge had manifested itself due the
sudden onset of rain and the suggestive tones of the pitter patter
upon the road, I was ignored. A similar potential injustice occurred
this very evening. Imagine the scene: we are cycling along US 101 and
come to the Oregon- California border where we pause to take photos.
Maurice volunteers to take some photos and as he gets out his camera I
notice a wad ( a real wad!) of Uncle Sams upon the pavement (American
word for road ). I hand the wad back to Maurice, who concedes this is
a Twitable offence. Imagine my chagrin when I am accused of
malfeasance. In response to a question over dinner ( admittedly
following the odd one or two of medicinal pain killers) as to how much
Maurice had dropped, I suggest the sum was $200. It turns out, per
Maurice, that it was in fact $400. I was accused of being an
incompetent ex-banker and hence due for a TWIT award. (Of course had I
realised that it was $400, I supposed I would have become a less than
honest banker - is there such a being?). More Anon. Tom

15th September – Gold Beach to Crescent City

This morning Tim was feeling slightly better, but was still not up for riding. Later he went to a doctor and was diagnosed with a urine infection.  He has antibiotics to take and hopes to on the road again within 24 hours.  Fingers crossed that he is ok for the rest of the tour.  He is maintaining a brave face in what must be a frustrating few days for him.

We left Gold Beach around 8.30am after breakfast at a local cafe.  This was our first disappointing meal – a bun heated in a microwave with virtually no nutritional value.  Within 5kms into the ride we were faced with a 750 feet climb over Cape Sebastian – with breakfast only just starting to digest. Not a great way to start the ride, but team Vancomex climbed it in style.

The ride hugged the coast and we were rewarded with a few lovely views, despite some early morning sea mist – the best one being Arch Rock where we met Mike and Jen from the UK and Frank and Carole from British Columbia. (See photos).

At 10.30 we stopped for a Starbucks coffee in Brookings (Brian, Maurice and Tom having a Spicy Pumpkin Latte!) and all of us eating a tasty cake or cookie.  After coffee we pushed on to reach the Oregon / California State Line (just over 1,280 kms completed) – another milestone achieved. Then the reality hit home as our mapping notes reminded us that the Californian coast is 1,600 kms in length which is just over half of the distance of the entire Pacific bike route!! However, we will soon reach the Redwoods- an area we are all looking forward to seeing.

We intended to stop for lunch at Fort Dick, just because the name appealed, but Brian was in urgent need of a refuel so we stopped earlier at Smith River and Vanda served us with some great burgers and fries.

The rest of the ride was easy into Crescent City - our stop for the night. When the Manager at the hotel was helping us to decide on a restaurant for dinner she explained that the harbour at Crescent City was destroyed by the Japanese Tsunami only two years ago – thankfully we are lodging on higher ground!

Today was the easiest cycling day so far at 90kms, but tomorrow looks very bumpy indeed with two 1000+ climbs in the morning!

A fantastic meal this evening at Crescent City dock area.  Chris took some great pictures of seals and sea birds and Tom attempted to be intimate with a sea lion. However, when arriving at the restaurant Scott (Driver and Road Manager) informed us there was NO bar and we could not have a beer before the meal.  After a walk along the pier we then found Scott in the restaurant bar supping beer. This gained him several points and he won TWIT of the day.    



The bridge into Gold beach –
view from our bedroom



Share the joke boys



A toilet in the woods just for Brian



Arch Rock viewpoint



Arch Rock viewpoint



Meet Mike and Jen from Gosport, UK
 and Frank and Carole from Bristish Columbia
 who we met at Arch Rock

Whalehead point – look closely at the
 rock and you’ll see why so named



Thanks Oregon, it’s been a pleasure






Hello California

Brian can you explain this picture?



Meet Vanda our chef at lunch




Bridget’s stats feedback to us today

 – she was pleased with us today as we

 largely followed her route

 



Where is Brian’s hand (or mind)!



Seal harbour at Crescent City




Now that’s relaxed




A bit too close for comfort Tom






Pitchers all round!



Thanks for your interest

Thanks for your interest in our blog - over 2900 page reviews to date - thank you. We are having such a great adventure but nursing the body soreness of 1200kms so far makes us realise the seriousness of the challenge. Ice machines in the hotels are coming in very handy!!

Please send us your comments - rude, encouraging or any other comment! We appreciate hearing from you.

Kind Regards,

Vancomex team
 

Toms column

Hello from Tom.

 

Chris (aka David Bailey ) and Brian (aka Piers Morgan) are producing some stunning copy of our truely extraordinary trip, which I hope you readers are all enjoying. If you do get a kick from taking a ganders please let us all know with a brief comment from time to time. Reading silently deprives us of the oxygen of feed back ( my friends and family buck up, please!)

 

Chris and Brian, very conscious of their positions and of the Leveson Enquiry are being very circumspect in what they say. Me, retired from active service, can let you have some insight into the features that are left on the cutting room floor. Unsurprisingly many - but no means all- of these concern the intrepid duo from Hadlow.  Of course we are all boys. And as the miles have rolled by we have got to feel more relaxed with each other, and also increasing sore in the nether regions. Those of a sensitive disposition should stop reading here. PAUSE.

 

The issue is this. Boys have a certain build which does seem at fundimental odds with the design of the racing saddle on our bikes. O.K we can manage 50 miles or so and not every day. But our anatomy is definately not destined to be placed on an upside down ironing plate for 6-7 hours a day. I will not attribute remarks personally ( except to assert that none have passed my lips). The comments have however become increasingly vociferous: "My a-s is killing me"; "I have a pimple on my bum" "Its so numb down there that I pissed myself without knowing". And so forth. This has prompted many a discussion of the merits and demerits (WHICH style) of the potions and lotions on the market to, allegedly, alleviate such dire conditions. I will let you readers into a personal secret: I have never deviated from good old Vaseline ( which if you purchase from the baby secton of Boots is so much more inexpensive compared to the same concoction sold in a tiny tin  marketed with fanfare as a lip salve - with added aloe vera crap. Better still one can buy an ENORMOUS, but unbranded, tub at the 99p store for, well, 99p). Of course there are those that insist on the cyclists' speciality of  expensive chamois cream, the idea being that your strides get as much smeared on as your a-s. Others, remembering with fondness (or otherwise) their role as fathers, swear by sudocream and the like. Well this will never be resolved but you get the drift of the high minded conversation as we pedal.

 

More anon, probably about our bowls.... Tom

14th September - Coos Bay to Gold Beach

The day got off to a disappointing start as at breakfast we found out Tim had had a bad night and was a feverish. He decided not to ride, take the pills and sleep out the afternoon - the right decision because it was a long day with restricted views due to heavy mist.

We departed just before 8.00am aware that the ride was at least 150km distance.  About 25kms into the ride we took a 16km detour to Cape Arago – well worth it just to hear and see the seals and sea lions honking.  The views were a bit restricted due to sea fog which persisted for most of the day. On the way out of Cape Arago State Park we were treated to a procession of vintage American cars who were participating in a car rally through Oregon State – 45 cars in all and I think we saw them all.

On the way to Bandon we cycled the Seven Devils Road.  We soon found out that each Devil was a steep hill.  Maurice was counting carefully, but gave up after the ten of them.  After cycling for 60kms we stopped at Bandon for coffee and blueberry pancakes – jummy! After Bandon we had an uninteresting 45kms cycle along US101. It was great to meet up again with Vince (trailor man) who is doing the same route as us.  We stopped for lunch at Port Orford, a small fishing port – Clam Chowders all round – lovely!

The remaining 45kms was head down on US101 as the weather (fog) had closed in and visibility was poor. Unfortunately, we missed some great scenic views of the coastline, but we can’t complain – our weather has been great so far.

Once we had decided that site-seeing was over for the day we finished in great style cycling quickly to the hotel – even Bradley would not have stayed with our pace.  We end the ride at Gold Beach having completed 150kms+ for the day.

Additions:  We have named Chris’s Garmin ‘Bridget’.  She has a mind of her own, she is contrary, changes her mind frequently and for spells refuses to cooperate.  However, she has her uses and we love her dearly.

 No Twit of the day award – boring behaviour by most – Tom on the edge as ever!

Fishing boats coming in at Charlston



Seals and Sea Lions at Cape Orago – lot's of honking going on here!




Cape Orago Head – best view we got !



Don’t leave me behind



Meet Rodger the Oregon Car rally steward and one of the competing American cars




There's been some wind in the peleton but these were
pretty strong!



Griffs on the dock for lunch at Port Orford



dinosaurs near Humbug Mountain state park




Spooky sea view picture at Port Orford with the mist




First barking dogs to contend with, now dinosaurs

leering at us at the roadside!



Meet Bridget the Garmin who controls our daily stats